Tangier

We took the bus back east toward Gibraltar to catch the ferry that would take us the African coast. Driving along the Costa del Sol, the Mediterranean Sea was the color of steel and clouds we were forming off shore. For some reason the trip seemed shorter, maybe because we had been there before.
As we neared our destination, Ed and Tim got on the bus mic and gave us some instructions on how to behave in Tangier. Just as the warned us about the gypsies, they now warned us about the Moroccan thieves. Tim warned us about shopping. He said that if you show the slightest interest, the object will be wrapped and delivered, and they will be asking for your money. He said that you barter for everything as you will get a better price. Finally, he said to stay away from the street sellers as they will push themselves upon you to buy something you probably won't need.

We came to a stop at Tarija when we were reminded to have our passports ready. As we climbed of the bus we were greeted by the rain. Those that had ponchos took them out and put them on. Most of us trying to lighten out load, left out umbrellas at home.

We were all huddled in the building that was being remodeled. The sound of the jackhammer was so deafening it was hard to hold a conversation, so we waited in silent reflection. Since I had a captive audience I took out my kazoo and plaid a little tune then JJ took out hers an we had a duet. Why not try a little line dancing? So JJ, a former tap dancer, joined me in the Cupid Shuffle. Before long we had Ann and Church with us as we played our Kazoos and did a line dance demo. It served to entertain the group until it was time to go.

Ed soon came and distributed passes, and we followed our fearless leader into the gaping mouth of the ferry. He said we got seats in the economy section which looked fine, but the restrooms were crowded. So I went to the first class and no one was using the rest rooms. When I came out, all the members of our group, we're selecting seats in first class. I figured it was another one of Ed's wonderful surprises. Way to go Ed.

The seas were surprisingly calm inspire of the in climate weather we were having. Everyone was in good humor as we crossed the twelve mile straights. Soon we could see the approaching coast I looked for the twin rock formation that the Phoenicians called the pillars of Hercules. I saw a few fancy hotels and rows of small houses nestled on the coast. We were told that we lost an hour so we left at 12:15 and arrived in Tangier at 12:00! Soon we landed and went down to join the economy class as we walked through the customs office.

Ed led us to our guide.  He wore a Jabala which is a full robe that men wore. Women also wore them but their robes were fancier. He took us to our bus and we were transported into the city of small cobbled stone streets. Looking out the window, we noticed rows of men dressed in black suites sitting in front of a restaurant drinking coffee. There were no sign of women anywhere.

The first stop was the Kasbah Museum. Our guide explained that the name "Kasbah" was a name given to a fortress for the protection of all the people of the city from invasions. Our guide went in and we followed into the museum. It was in need of repair and renovation, but we could see the Arabic influence in the tile work and writings from the Koran. The footing was also uneven and everyone was watching where we stepped. The museum was in the form of a square with a large patio and small museum rooms each with artifacts from various eras of history.

 Our guide also pointed an outside stove that everyone in the city could use. Also he pointed out a well that was used to get water for their home.

Finally we were led to the casbah where we were to dine. As we climbed up the small steps we heard music from above. The room opened up to a group of round tables with low sitting stools. To the right in a room partitioned with four posters and drapes. Four musicians playing a Djembe drum, Tambourine, Oud, a string instrument like a guitar, and a violin.  They  played Middle Eastern music with a 4/4 time rhythm that was pleasant to our ears.  Some of us were invited to play and join them which gave us all a great party atmosphere.

We were first given water and some asked for beer. Wine or other liquor is not served. So we all toasted with our water glasses.

The meals arrived in large serving dishes placed in the center of the table.  We all served ourselves salad and some tables got soup.

Our next course was fish, shrimp, and chicken mixed with rice.  Everyone was encouraged to try everything, but few took the fish, which still had the head, and had a lot of bones.  It was slow eating as we picked our way through the meal, favoring the chicken over the fish.

The band kept playing and since it took time for the meal to be served, some of us got up and danced. JJ and I improvised with our Kazoos and did our Cupid Shuffle dance the Middle Eastern sound.  There was also plenty of time to take pictures of all the groups.

Finally, our desert came in the way of watermelon and cookies.  It was sweet and the cookies were tasty!

Our guide then came and let us out through the narrow streets where we were set upon the street sellers who pressed their goods in front of our noses.  We remembered what Tim said and showed not interest and just said, NO!  Finally, we came upon a shop with three levels.  We were asked to follow up the stairs to the third floor leaving many on the first level.  When we got there several carpet salesmen were ready to show us their wears, but we had to explain that we were in no position to buy and cart a large rug with us. We turned and left down the stairs where everyone else was meandering looking for souvenirs.

A crowd gathered around Charmain who had learned how to bargain on her trip to Turkey.  She was doing a great job with one of the vendors and it became pretty entertaining.

Soon  it was time to walk back to the bus.  We walked back by some older men that didn't seem too happy to see us.  Our guide led us by a group of snake tames and asked if we wanted to see his do his tricks.  At this point most of us were just ready to head for the bus.  So we passed on the snake charmer.

The guide pointed out that Tangier was planning to dredge out a new pier to accommodate large cruise ships.  It was clear that they saw the financial benefit of tourism like the Alhambra.  It would take some time to do a bit of cleaning and polish up the town before the big ships disembark, but in time some change could bring in profit.  For now, we were ready to leave the African coast and set sail back to Spain.

I am adding Dotti O'Connor's poem which confirms much of what we experienced in a poem.

On the way to Morocco our 52 went.
We left energetic but came back so spent.
Our passports were handy but hidden away,
Along with possessions we'd need for that day.

Like cattle, we entered security stops
And filled out their papers so we'd see no cops.
Then on to Morocco, Tangier more specific
To tour and to dine on a meal so terrific.

The sites were amazing, the architecture supreme,
The walkways a challenge - the stairways obscene.
Then on to the restaurant passing cat after cat,
For a meal full of fish heads served by waiters in hats.

Next came the shopping - a challenge of sort
Where "no" isn't "no" to the venders in port.
They followed and bargained and begged us to look.
The price started high - but that's not what they took.

Whether rubles or dollars or euros or pounds,
They would take what we offered - but we only looked down.
We picked up a stranger who invaded our ranks
Who then tried to lead us for payment - not thanks.

A Moroccan ran after our group with a purse.
Who knew saying "maybe" could be such a curse?
Then once more we gathered to cruise back to Spain.
A day filled with sunshine - we avoided the rain.

A fabulous tour with one mishap - "oh Hell".
We were weary but happy with stories to tell.
As we departed the port I smiled - for my wish
Was to feed a thin cat a freshly fried fish..
....and I did.
                                                                                    By Dotti O'Connor