Singing in Spain

Miro Tile in Las Ramblas

We got home and from Montserrat, and we had the whole afternoon to sight see and pack for our departure. Jean,Dick and I went to the Ramblas. It is a street for pedestrians traffic only to be used as a shopping "Mall." It is a major street that has hotels, theaters and shops and goes on forever. We went to get a soccer t-shirt for Jeans' nephew and to sight see. We also wanted to see the Miro art work done in tile on the street. We ended up going all the way to the marina and watched the yachts come into the harbor.

When we returned, I went up to my room and found Meg had already packed and was reading her book for the second time. Not me, as I wanted to go the beach and check it out. JJ had walked to the beach the previous day, and said that the women were top-less. When Brian's eyes lit up, she said to him that it wasn't that interesting as the women didn't look like Playboy pin-ups! I remember singing in my head, "Do your ears hang low, do they wobble to and fro..." not thinking about ears at all! Well, I needed to see for myself and I needed the run. I figured if I didn't get lost I could make it there in ten minutes.

I put on my running shoes shirt and shorts and I was off. The streets around our hotel were not very clean and you had to watch where you were going. I tried to remember things along the way so I would not get lost. I only had to ask directions once, and I was glad I did as I was heading for the Ramblas again. Finally, I saw the bridge leading to the marina and after I passed a McDonalds I was there starring at the Mediterranean Sea. We all said that we wanted to place our feet in the Mediterranean sea before we left and this was my opportunity.

I went down by the water and took off my shoes and socks and went in to my knees. The water was cool but swimmable, and there were some people wading in to their chests. Now I can say that I was in the Med Sea! I sat on the beach relaxing when I spotted a windsurfer way off in the distance. I was surprised to he a windsurfer, since it wasn't very windy. I have to have enough wind to kick up white caps when I go windsurfing, as I do not like to pull up the sail out of the water and prefer doing a water start. I sat until he came close to shore, then I could see he had a large wide board used in regattas, and about a nine meter sail. He did a successful tack by walking around the back of his board while swiveling the board around with his feet. He grabbed the boom on the other side, and when he had the wind in his sail, he hooked in, and was off to the wild, blue, yonder again.

I felt I had enough sun and started back. After walking on the I stopped to wash my feet in the foot wash. I put my socks and shoes on and headed for the McDonalds restaurant following the street back to the hotel. I only got lost once, then make an abrupt change of direction getting back to the hotel in time to take a shower and get ready for Flamenco night.

I walked into the room and Meg was already dressed in the lovely dress she had bought the day before. She was ready to go down to the lobby. I said I would meet her in about fifteen minutes. I checked my wardrobe and found a red, silk blouse I had not worn, and my black performing skirt with a belt. That would do it. When I was ready to go, I decided to put a red flower in my hair for the final touch, and headed for the elevator.

When I got to the lobby, everyone was there dressed to the hilt. This was our last night, and we were all ready to party! The bus arrived, and we were off. We had to walk across the Ramblas from the bus lot to get to the flamenco show. I remember passing by the theater that afternoon. The walk was not as bad as I thought in my little heels. We were seated right away and given bottles of wine. The meal was a buffet so we went to the buffet tables and were amazed at all the food that was on display. I usually create mound of food on one plate when I go to buffets. So this time I decided to take a small salad and come back for the protein later. The food was delicious, and I was so stuffed and thought I didn't room for dessert until I saw the fabulous spread of goodies. I decided to splurge and take a little of each. Now I was really full! We all went around taking pictures of each other, and I could see everyone was enjoying themselves.

JJ, Dick, Jean, and Carolyn

Kim, Pat, and Renee

Yours truly Mary, Brian, Meg, and Bill

Ann, Phill, and Fran

Kevin, Tim, and RJ

Amy, Doug, and Paula

We then went into the cabaret style theater and took our seats to the left of the stage. It was an intimate theater almost in the round so we were up close and personal to the performers. I sat in the front row thinking it was going to be the best seat, but I was mistaken. I should have been farther back and gotten more artistic distance. Ed and Sharon also sat close just a few seats from me right in front of the stage. They might have thought the same thing about being too close once the show began.

Audience waiting in anticipation

"I think Ed is nodding off!"

Flamenco today has become a highly professional art form. What began in Andalusia with the gypsy Romani people has become highly regarded as Spain's contribution to the world of dance. It is no wonder that today there are more Flamenco studios in Japan than anywhere in the world as its expressive form of theater taps the energies of all people who feel emotion to their core.

The guitarist undergo rigorous training in ability to play melodies as well as the intricate exiting rhythms that are the fundamental beat of the dance. Dancers study ballet as well as other dance styles to prepare for the dance. In a performance like this one there would be at least three guitarist playing. Also the clapping is an important part of the music as it excites the dancers and sets the basic rhythm. The foot stomping may be a different rhythm completely, and if the dancer plays the castanets, another rhythm again. Finally, the cantaores, singers are the heat and soul of the performance.

The songs called palos are categorized by basic rhythm patterns such as mode, chord progression, form of stanzas and geographic origin. One of the reasons why the music sung sounds a bit strange to us Westerners is that they do not follow a major or minor scale but instead use the Modern Phrygian mode. They use an Andalusian cadence the harmonic scale that requires the 3rd degree to be sharpened. If they happen to use a major or minor scale, it is limited in harmony. As to the singing most express sad and bitter feelings.

The dance uses the stomping rhythm of the feet and the use of castanets clapping add to the force of the movement. Along with the feet and hands the dances use isolation of the hips and chest as well as using the arms high above the head. Arms are seen swirling in opposition as they flow up and down for emphasis. The dance may also be influenced by Fandango which was a folkloric style of dances that began in the 18th century. They usually have a time signature of 3/4 or 6/8. Another influence is the Tango that are slower dances like the rumba sung in 4/4 time rhythm.

The lights went out and we were bathe in darkness. Then we heard the rhythm of the box player. He sat on a box that he used for a drum, and played the box between his legs. The lights rose and a heavy set woman entered wearing a beautiful flamenco gown. She began singing, or more like yelling, a lamenting song about a lost love. By now we are sitting on the edge of our chairs as her voice rose in decibels. She left, and the guitarists entered taking their places. The clapping by two men began the next number as two dancers entered kicking the train of their dresses. They added to the clapping. These performers did not use castanets. The dancers continue the stomping, and there was wild yelling that got the audience going. The show continued without intermission and when the soft guitar started to play, some of us saw Ed nodding off. He had had quite a day, and we don't disturb him as his head drops to his chest. Then the stomping began again with a young stud stomping so fast that he almost sent vibrations through the room. Ed suddenly was back in our world as the dancer stomped close enough to wake the dead! All the girls returned this time with flowing shawls, and added to the high level of movement on the stage for the finale.

All the dancers stayed and let the audience take pictures though some of us took pictures during the show because it was allowed.

We gave them a standing ovation, took our pictures, and left the cabaret moving our hips to the rhythm that still pulsed in the nerves. When we got outside, we left the theater and began walking back to the bus when Tim suddenly started his own song of lament howling in the night! He did the heel stomping dance which was infections enough to get everyone moving in imitation. Even Cassie was doing a wild thing with her hips. It had been a great night!

The next morning we checked out of our hotel and had our bags placed in the bus for the trip to the airport. When we got there, we noticed all the rubbish. Like many places in Spain people were feeling the economic down slide, and they took it out in strikes and vandalism. This was one way to show that the workers at the airport were fighting back.

We got on our plane for the seven hour trip back. It would be enough to show two films and then get some sleep before arriving in New York and then transfer to Tampa.

We said good-by to the snowbirds going home from New York. By the time we got to Tampa, we were beat. It would take a few days to recover though some would have to go to work of Friday. I cancelled my the exercise class I teach at the YMCA to give me another week to recuperate.

Two weeks was over and we had seen a lot of Spain. I tried to document as much as I was able, but there were some things that will have to be left unsaid! We have a saying now that, "What happens in Spain... Stays in Spain!"

In the morning after breakfast we drove to Montserrat (Jagged Mountain) where the Benedictine Abbey is housed. We were told to wear our pastel polo shirts as we would be singing in the church before we listened to the famous Montserrat Boy's Choir one of Europe's oldest music schools. We were all excited because we had heard so much about this abbey and it would be our last chance to sing in a church.

The monastery was founded in 1025 on a narrow platform in Valle Malo valley. Its existence came about as a result of finding a sculpture of the Virgin Mary in a cave near by. According to legend, the statue was carved by St. Luke and was brought to Barcelona by St. Peter. When the Moors invaded it was take to Montserrat for safe keeping and hid in a cave. In 880 Gondemar, the bishop of Vich was let to the cave by shepherds who were attracted by the sounds and sweet smells coming from the cave. When statue was found, she was to be taken to Manresa but at some point the statue would not move from the mountain. So a chapel was built for her. Through the years a nunnery was built and then a second Benedictine Abbey was built. Misfortune occurred the following years with a fire that burned part of the Abbey and Napoleon's army taking treasures accumulated through the middle ages.
Political insurrections limited the number of monks in the abbey which by the time of 1835 were now conducting a music school. Finally Pope Benedict XIII provided a grant which put the Abbey under the bishop of Barcelona.

We began the trip riding parallel along the beach. There was plenty of traffic but most was going into the city. If we looked beyond the cars we could see the Mediterranean Sea.


The sea is beyond the cars!

Then the bus pulled off the main road and we started to climb. The road was narrow but our bus driver was the best and he kept a steady speed as we continued to climb up 2, 920 ft high to the Abbey. It was not easy going around hair pin turns.

We continued climbing even passing by bike riders practicing for the Tour de Spain bike race.

It is hard to take pictures of riders whizzing by...

We continued driving and saw how the mountain was sliced in order to make the road. We could see that the mountain was pink conglomerate sedimentary rock. At times when we looked up we could see some of the serrated points that for which this mountain is known.

Soon we came upon a village half way up the rise. This was the village of Monistrol where many of the workers from Montserrat live and commute to work.

There are parts that are still building.

We continued up the road which was becoming even steeper.

Soon we saw another sign with a #9 to let you know you have nine kilometers to go!


We had nine miles to go!

Eventually, we got over the crest, and we found the parking lot for the buses. There we were able to go to the edge of the crest and take pictures where we had come.

Kevin focuses his camera.

On a clear day you can see the Island of Majorca and the Pyrenees on the other side.

The Bergins pose with the city below.

We then followed Ed to the reception area where we were to meet our guide.
We were greeted by the Abbey statues: a monk and a nun

We fell in line waking to the main Abbey.

The entrance war right across the street from the train station that delivered people by train and cable car. The train called a cremallera connects from the main train from Barcelona at Monistrol. It then takes about 18 minutes to come to Montserrat. The cable cars can also be taken and take about the same amount of time.

We continued walking toward the Abbey which was across from the train station.

We all gathered around Ed who gave us some directions in case we wanted brochures. He needed to go and search out our guide.

It looked like we would have to climb the stairs that were full of kids on vacation. Navigating through them would be a challenge!

When we got there we had to climb steps to get to the plaza. There were many tour groups there already and lots of kids on field trips.

We met our cute guide Yolanda who was going to take us to see a copy of the black Virgin . We walked into a small alcove and got to see the Virgin that was carved out of a dark wood. The real one sits in the sacristy of the Santa Maria Basilica. People can wait in a long line and to up to her and touch her and say a prayer.

Yolanda then took us into the Escolandia, the boys music school.

The Boy's Choir at Montserrat is the oldest boy's choir in Europe established in the 14th century.
The school is called Escolandia. Boys as young as seven audition to be included on the basis of voice and musical theory, academic performance, and adaptability and socialization. The education they receive is human and intellectual curriculum as well as music training. Each student also can learn one or two instruments. Many choose a string instrument and a woodwind or horn. They have vocalization each day and perform in the church.

The boys can board or commute from the near by town, Monistrol. We were able to walk through the dorm as the boys were out playing soccer and we would not be disturbing them. It was cute to see some of them still had their teddy bears on their beds. One even had a large Sponge Bob sitting on his pillow. As we walked down the hall we got to see their art work on the walls. Yolanda then took us to the practice hall which looked like a sunken kiva. Everything was up to date with high end electronics and modern furniture. We were very impressed at how clean everything was.

We ended our tour in basilica of Santa Maria at Montserrat. It was beautiful church and we looked to see where the real virgin was placed high above the back wall.

Rows of people were in a line waiting their turn to see the Virgin

If Jean turned, she would see the virgin all lit up .

We were just in time as Tim was getting everyone ready to sing in front of a full house of pilgrims and tourists.


"Jubilato Deo"

We were thrilled with the wonderful round of applause that we received from the audience.
We then sat down in front to wait until the boys walked in for their performance.

The boys sing in soprano and alto voices

Paula gets a ring side seat!

It was such a wonderful experience watching them sing in their angelic voices. They were so disciplines as they filed out in perfect order.

We got up gathered out things and followed the crowed out the hall with beautiful chandeliers.

We were all a bit hungry so after going through the gift shop we found our way to the cafeteria that was in full swing with all the people eating. The service was fantastic and soon we all got what we wanted and sat down to eat. It had been a great day so far and after we were fed we felt even better.
We went outside to look and the view and take more pictures.